Penrhyn Castle is a hidden gem in North Wales, and I can hardly believe it took me so long to explore this stunning site. With its breathtaking interiors, it has quickly become my favorite castle in Wales. Unfortunately, it often gets overshadowed by the more famous Conwy Castle nearby.
This magnificent castle was home to the Pennant family, who used their considerable wealth to create such an impressive estate. However, the history of Penrhyn Castle is not without its darker aspects. It was built on the backs of workers from the Penrhyn slate quarry and enslaved individuals from four sugar plantations in Jamaica.
Visiting Penrhyn Castle offers a unique glimpse into both its architectural beauty and the complex history that surrounds it. It’s a place that invites reflection on the past while showcasing the grandeur of its design, making it a must-see for anyone traveling through Wales.
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Where is Penrhyn Castle and How to Get There?
Penrhyn Castle, known in Welsh as Castell Penrhyn, is located in Llandygai, near Bangor in Gwynedd, North Wales. This impressive country house is easily accessible, situated about a 25-minute drive from the historic Conwy Castle and roughly 30 minutes from Holyhead.
The castle’s location offers visitors a unique blend of history and natural beauty, with the stunning Snowdonia National Park just a short distance away. This proximity makes it an ideal spot for those looking to explore both cultural landmarks and the great outdoors.
🚆 BY TRAIN
To reach Penrhyn Castle by train, start your journey at Bangor, the closest train station. If you’re coming from Chester, you can hop on a direct train that will get you to Bangor in about 1 hour and 10 minutes.
Once you arrive at Bangor, it’s a pleasant 2.2-mile walk to Penrhyn Castle. This stroll will take you roughly 50 minutes, allowing you to enjoy the scenery along the way.
For those traveling from Liverpool, you’ll need to change trains in Chester, making the total travel time approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes. Similarly, if you’re departing from Manchester, most trains will also require a transfer in Chester, with a similar travel duration of around 2 hours and 30 minutes.
🚗💨 BY CAR
Reaching Penrhyn Castle by car is likely the easiest way to go. If you’re coming from Chester, the journey will take about 1 hour and 10 minutes. From Liverpool, expect a drive of around 1 hour and 30 minutes, while those traveling from Manchester will need about 2 hours.
For those starting their trip from Birmingham, the drive will take approximately 2 hours and 40 minutes. Once you arrive, you’ll find the National Trust Car Park conveniently located for your visit.
Penrhyn Castle Tickets
When you visit Penrhyn Castle, buying tickets is a straightforward and hassle-free experience. If you’re keen to enjoy the stunning architecture and history of the castle without any cost, plan your trip to Wales in September. During this month, the Open Doors event takes place, allowing many historical sites to welcome visitors for free, showcasing the rich cultural heritage of the region.
In past years, Penrhyn Castle has participated in this fantastic initiative, although it’s important to note that involvement can change annually. Nevertheless, there’s a good chance that the castle will be part of the event, making it an excellent opportunity for those interested in exploring its grandeur without spending a dime.
Another great way to visit Penrhyn Castle for free is by obtaining a seasonal pass from the National Trust. Each season, they provide a limited number of complimentary passes that grant access to various sites they manage. Just be sure to verify in advance whether Penrhyn Castle is included in the offer, as some locations may not participate.
Interior of Penrhyn Castle
Grand Hall
Penrhyn Castle is famous among others for its Grand Hall. Its soaring height gives it a majestic feel, similar to that of a church’s nave or transept. The ceiling showcases a triforium, elegantly supported by intricate compound columns. When gazing upward, the roof lights resemble watchful eyes, adding to the hall’s charm.
You can also enjoy views of the Grand Hall from the surrounding balconies. Plan to spend at least two hours exploring the interiors of Penrhyn Castle. In my view, the beauty of these interiors surpasses that of Powis Castle and Chirk Castle.
Library, Penrhyn Castle
The library in Penrhyn Castle exudes the charm of a gentleman’s club, crafted as a retreat for men after dinner. Historical records indicate that this space also served as a venue for family plays and theatrical performances.
The northern section of the library, along with the adjacent Drawing Room, retains elements from the original medieval structure. This historical influence may have contributed to the eerie design of the grotesques that once adorned the arches. These unique features were captured in an 1846 lithograph but were sadly removed during renovations in the 1930s.
The Penrhyn Castle Library boasts an impressive collection of around 1,800 books, spanning various genres. This room is also home to a stunning slate billiard table and custom furniture designed by Hopper, enhancing its elegant atmosphere.
Drawing Room, Penrhyn Castle
The Drawing Room in Penrhyn Castle served as a retreat for ladies, providing a space for socializing while gentlemen occupied the adjacent library. The room’s decor features warm hues, reflecting feminine influences that were prominent in its design. However, these charming details were overshadowed when the castle became an office for the Daimler car manufacturing company during World War II.
Much of the room’s furniture is attributed to the renowned designer Hopper. At both ends of the Drawing Room, large gilt mirrors enhance the space’s elegance. Notably, author Catherine Sinclair, who visited in the 1830s, remarked on one mirror as “the largest mirror ever made in this country,” highlighting its impressive stature and significance within the room.
In 1985, the Drawing Room underwent a meticulous restoration to recreate its original splendor. Silk brocade curtains and wall hangings were rewoven by Prelle et Cie. of Lyon, using a fragment of the original fabric discovered on the sofa. This company had initially woven the fabric in the 1830s, ensuring that the restoration remained true to its historical roots.
Ebony Room
The Ebony Room is an integral part of the original fortified manor house. The mirror located to the right of the door from the Drawing Room may have served as the original passageway connecting the two spaces.
Conversely, the mirror on the left side might have once functioned as an external entrance. These features could indicate a shift in the architect’s vision or intentional design choices by Hopper, aiming to create an illusion of age in the room.
Historically, the Ebony Room served as a meeting place for the Ladies of Penrhyn. Here, they would gather with the Housekeeper and senior staff to discuss daily schedules and menus. This room was essential for planning and organizing the household’s activities, reflecting the importance of social gatherings in that era.
True to its name, the furniture in the Ebony Room is crafted from rich ebony wood. The arches are designed with painted plaster, mimicking the look of ebony, while the chimney piece features polished black limestone. This combination of materials adds to the room’s elegance and sophistication, making it a striking example of the castle’s interior design.
Staircase
The staircase at Penrhyn Castle features a simple design focused on practicality. A painting by Henry Hawkins, depicting the quarry that brought wealth to the Pennants, has been displayed here since 1899.
While the staircase is charming in its own right, the Grand Staircase will make your jaw drop. Visitors often find themselves in awe of its beauty and craftsmanship, so make sure to check them out in this article.
Chapel
The interior of Penrhyn Castle reflects a rich history that predates its 19th-century construction. For nearly four centuries, a chapel served the estate, and remnants of this earlier structure can still be found on the grounds.
The current chapel features beautiful encaustic tiles and stained-glass windows, some of which are believed to originate from the original chapel. Notably, the stained-glass was crafted by David Evans from Shrewsbury, showcasing intricate designs that enhance the chapel’s ambiance.
Within the chapel, the family would gather for worship, while the senior staff occupied the pews below. The junior staff had designated spots in the gallery on the north side, where prayer-book ledges are integrated into the arches. This arrangement may have evolved over the years, reflecting changes in the family’s and staff’s roles within the castle.
Daily prayers were held at 9:30 am, including Sundays, creating a routine for the castle’s inhabitants. Additionally, communion was celebrated once a month on Sundays, further emphasizing the chapel’s importance in the lives of the family and staff.
Lower India Room
The word ‘India’ historically referred to anything from the ‘East’. Western markets grew fond of items showcasing Eastern scenery and motifs. This trend was fueled by the trade activities of the East India Company.
In this room, you can find a mix of Asian objects. A Persian carpet lies on the floor, while Japanese vases add elegance. The stunning Chinese wallpaper enhances the overall aesthetic of the space.
A lacquered cabinet is visible in the mirror, positioned behind the door. Crafted around 1800, it features earlier Chinese panels with horsemen made of mother-of-pearl and hardstones. The lower doors showcase European figures from the 18th century, highlighting the contrast between Eastern and Neo-Norman styles.
The Keep Bedrooms
The Keep Bedrooms likely served as a single apartment. It includes an ante room, a bedroom, a sitting room, and a dressing room. This layout continues on the upper floors of the Keep.
The slate bed probably originated from a craftsman who typically made slate headstones and chest tombs. The slate was sourced from the Penrhyn Slate quarry, visible from the bedroom window.
The chimney-piece features red Mona Marble. Above the chimney-piece hangs Clarkson Stanfield’s painting titled Amalfi. Stanfield was a prominent early Victorian landscape artist, recognized as a leader among English Realists.
Grand Staircase
It’s hard to gaze at this magnificent space without feeling awe. A skilled team of stone masons spent over a decade carving the staircase. Each carving is unique, showcasing their incredible craftsmanship. The Grand Staircase stretches the entire height of the house and ends in a lantern that provides light to this incredible interior.
Architect Thomas Hopper chose two distinct types of stone for this project. The walls are made of limestone, likely from Painswick, while the carved pylons and balustrades are crafted from grey sandstone.
The stair treads feature York sandstone, matching the Grand Hall and corridors. The lantern, made of plaster, reflects a design influenced more by Norse and Celtic styles than the Norman architecture found elsewhere in the castle.
Dining Room
The Dining Room and Breakfast Room had multiple uses in Penrhyn Castle. Their main purpose was for dining, which varied based on the occasion. When guests visited, the larger Dining Room was utilized. However, the family preferred the Breakfast Room for private meals.
These rooms also functioned as picture galleries. Edward Douglas-Pennant amassed a significant collection of paintings. The design and decoration of other reception rooms limited space for displaying artwork, therefore the dining room was used for this purpose.
Kitchen
Penrhyn boasts an impressive array of service buildings. The house features a butler’s pantry and a servants’ hall. The kitchen is well-equipped with a pantry and a dedicated pastry room. Each space serves a specific purpose to enhance functionality.
Railway Museum
The slate quarry operated by the Pennant at Bethesda played a significant role in the evolution of industrial narrow-gauge railways. Especially, the Penrhyn Quarry Railway, which is recognized as one of the pioneering industrial railways globally. This connection highlights the importance of the quarry not just in slate production but also in the advancement of railway technology during that era.
In 1951, a fascinating museum dedicated to railway history was established within the stable block. This museum serves as a treasure trove of railway artifacts, celebrating the rich heritage of the railways that once thrived in the region. Among the notable exhibits is the first locomotive to be donated to the museum, named Charles. It is one of the last three steam locomotives that were actively used on the Penrhyn Quarry Railway.
Exterior of Penrhyn Castle
Penrhyn Castle is a Grade I listed building. Cadw recognizes it as one of Wales’ most significant country houses. It exemplifies the brief Norman Revival of the early 19th century. The architect Thomas Hopper is widely regarded for this masterpiece.
The castle grounds showcase Victorian gardening styles, featuring specimen trees and rhododendrons. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time to explore Penrhyn Castle Gardens. We were captivated by the castle’s interiors, which took longer than expected. The rainy weather also influenced our decision to skip the outdoor area.
I suggest visiting Penrhyn Castle in autumn when the walls are adorned with vibrant red foliage. Summer is another excellent time to go, as the castle is close to the coast. You can also combine your visit to Penrhyn Castle with discovering some of the best beaches in Wales.
Owners of Penrhyn Castle
Richard Pennant
The Pennant family’s wealth began in the late 17th century with Gifford Pennant, a former soldier. He settled in Jamaica and established one of the island’s largest estates. This estate eventually included a slave sugar cane plantation.
Gifford’s son, Edward, achieved the position of Chief Justice of Jamaica. By the late 18th century, the family had amassed enough wealth to return to England. They decided to invest their profits in developing their estates in England and Wales.
In the 18th century, Richard Pennant purchased the Penrhyn estate. He used his sugar profits to enhance this North Wales property. Also, understanding the opportunities in slate production, Richard significantly increased operations at Penrhyn Quarry. His investments were crucial for expanding the quarry’s capabilities and rebuilding the castle.
George Hay Dawkins-Pennant
During the years spanning from 1822 to 1837, the architect Thomas Hopper undertook the ambitious project of designing a grand Neo-Norman castle for George. This endeavor was fueled by George’s reputed obsession with building, often referred to as a ‘building mania.’ Interestingly, despite the scale and grandeur of the castle, George resided in a modest house located on the estate, which highlights a contrast between his aspirations and his actual living conditions.
Once the castle was completed, George only had the opportunity to enjoy his magnificent creation for a brief period of three years. His time in the castle was cut short by his passing in 1840. The castle, a testament to Hopper’s design prowess, stands as a symbol of George’s dreams and ambitions, even if he could not fully experience the fruits of his labor.
Penrhyn Castle is among the largest in Britain. Its impressive size makes it a notable landmark. The exact cost of building this grand structure remains unclear. Many materials were sourced from the family’s own forests and quarries. Additionally, much of the labor was provided by their industrial workforce.
This makes it challenging to determine the total expenses involved. Cadw estimates that the construction cost the Pennant family approximately £150,000. In today’s money, that would be around £50 million.
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